Ramen, Pho and More: What's Hot in the Pot

The noodle: humble staple of the cook who can't cook. Even someone who doesn't know the difference between baking and broiling can probably heat a pot of water and drop in some spaghetti or ramen. But the humble noodle has recently demanded to be taken seriously, and is commanding the attention of food lovers, formidable chefs, and instructors at cooking schools alike. So whether you're a serious cooking school student or an amateur gourmand, you should be interested in the following three trends in noodle cuisine.

Ramen

Because it's cheap and easy to prepare, one Japanese term for instant ramen is gakusei ryori, or student cuisine. But the made-from-scratch version of this soup is a complex dish that most Japanese cooks don't even attempt to make at home. Instead, to get a fix they head to one of the country's ramenyas, which are small restaurants specializing in ramen. The soup's simple framework of noodles, broth and toppings gives chefs plenty of room for invention, and America has recently seen an explosion of innovative and delicious versions. Probably the most famous of the American ramen masters is David Chang, who has been serving sophisticated ramen at his New York City restaurants since 2004. He uses pork, ham, chicken and bacon to create his rich signature broth. Chang and other chefs like him are proving that ramen isn't just a dish for students to chow down on, but one for them to study in even the most rigorous cooking school.

Pho

What ramen is to Japan, pho (rhymes with "duh") is to Vietnam: a national dish that can be comfort food or culinary high art. Pho is traditionally a soup of rice noodles served over beef broth flavored with herbs like cilantro, anise and Asian basil. Sliced beef, tripe or meatballs top it off. The history of this bright, flavorful soup is debated. Some trace its roots to China, others argue that the French colonizers' beef stew "pot au feu" was adapted to create the first pho (almost the same word as "feu"). What's clear is that pho originated in the north of Vietnam and spread to the south. And this was only the first phase of its rise in worldwide popularity. Immigrants have opened restaurants serving authentic pho in cities across North America. The New York Times reports that enthusiastic diners have coined a word to describe the experience of feasting on this delectable dish: un-pho-gettable.

Whole-Grain Pasta

In 2005, archaeologists unearthed a 4,000-year-old bowl of noodles, the oldest ever found, made from the whole grain millet. Nowadays, what's old is new: whole-grain pastas are flying off the shelves, thanks to their high protein, fiber and antioxidant counts. They also have a pleasantly nutty flavor and pair well with robust sauces. But these noodles are not only a great way to vary the old pasta-and-sauce quickie dinner. World class chefs are working with them, as well. For example, Del Posto, awarded four stars by the New York Times in September, has been featuring a whole wheat tonnarelli on its lunch menu.